Gordon & MacPhail ‘Connoisseurs Choice’ Mannochmore 1990 (15 year old) 46%
Refill Sherry/ Dist: 1990 Btl: 2006/ Tasted: June 2011
A soft, textbook, grassy Spey with a background of sherry oak. I’ve encountered more complex bottlings, but it’s pleasantly straightforward in a fleshy fruit way. With time hints of earth and soft, crumbly spice emerge.
The palate opens with the grassy notes but some burnt caramel encroaches and to be honest the sherry character is a bit on the hard and tannic side. The alcohol hammers the middle and well that puts paid to any further enjoyment. There is a slight spicy and oily, malty note in the finish, but I’m somewhat unmoved.
Gordon & MacPhail ‘Exclusive’ Mannochmore 1993 (21 year old) 48.8%
Exclusive for the Whisky Shop Dufftown 10th Anniversary
Refill Bourbon Hogsheads/ Dist: Jun 1993 Btl: Apr 2015/ Tasted: July 2016
The nose is beautifully mature and initially very straw-like with barley, brittle honey and hints of pure vanilla. Opens up to show a touch of melon and a fair amount of buttery, dusty oak.
The palate is quite oaky with vanilla, toffee and butter. A touch of crisp citrus and the alcohol balance. Hints of straw-like barley and honey come through on the middle but the toffee’d oak is omnipresent. On the finish the weight of oak grips and bitters, but some sweet malt and barley attempt to counter balance. In conclusion: I think it has spent a little too long in the cask as the oak is overly aggressive and the balance has been a little lost.
Whisky According to Chris Whiskyman 